my first 'barrel'
On the eighteenth of January 2002 me and my friend Ben walked down the steps at 'Smiths'. We looked out at Supertubes Reef and then glanced at the little shore breakers and Ben said to me that we have to try the reef.
To tell you the truth I was "pooing" myself when we started to paddle out on our bodyboards.
When we got out there I started talking to this older surfer guy. He gave me heaps of confidence. He got me to catch some smaller ones.
Then he saw a big swell line approching and told me to start paddling so I turned and paddled as hard as I could and the wave got me. I was goin' hell fast and then I hit the bottom and the lip broke over me and that was the best feeling of my life.
Not just because it was a barrel at Smiths Beach but the whole place, because my grandparents lived down there. THANKS SMITHS!!!!!!!!
Help with translation:
'Barrel' - sometimes also referred to as a 'keg' ot 'tube' by surfers; is the cylinder of water formed by a perfect breaking wave. To get "barrelled" is to ride inside the spiralling cylinder of water formed by the wave. It is a magic experience as described by Ben.
'Supertubes' - name of surf spot at the north end of Smiths Beach. A shallow breaking reef break, not for the faint hearted. If you look out from a right hand barrel at 'Supertubes' you would be staring directly into the armpit of the proposed development site.
(Close this browser window to get back to the action at Smiths Beach)